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Blogging the NY Times: The Perfect Chocolate Chip Cookie

2008_07_18-NYTimesChocChipCookie.jpgLeave it to the New York Times to take on the grand-daddy of all classic cookies and have the audacity to call it "perfect"! But from what we're hearing around the blogosphere, "perfect" pretty well sums it up. Molly over at Orangette is ready to write love sonnets. Even PJ Hamel writing for the King Arthur Flour blog concedes the awesomeness of this recipe.

Show of hands--who's already softened their stock of butter, sourced out the fèves, and set the kitchen timer for 36 hours?

No idea what we're talking about? Read on!

 
 

"Perfection? Hint: It's Warm and It Has a Secret" chronicles David Leite's pursuit of the ultimate chocolate chip cookie. We were tickled as punch to see that his quest started with none other than our favorite "recipe from the back of the box" Toll House Cookies.

We were, however, a little miffed to read that Mrs. Toll House (er...Mrs. Wakefield) has been withholding a crucial cookie-making secret from us for all these years! Who would have ever thought that letting the dough rest for upwards of 36 hours would make such a difference in a cookie?

As Leite describes, this resting period gives the flour time to absorb the liquid in the mix, resulting in a firmer dough and better final cookie texture. This also seems to result in richer, more complex flavors in the baked cookie.

Equally important is the size of the cookie, according to Leite. It needs to be big enough to allow for three distinct rings of texture: crunchy, chewy, and soft. This seems a matter of individual taste to us, but we're more than willing to take any excuse to make a large cookie.

Ok! We have dutifully counted backwards from the barbecue we're attending this weekend and have our own dough chilling as we type. We'll report back on Monday to tell you how it goes.
2008_07_18-NYTimesChocChipCookie2.jpg
Anyone else up for a cookie challenge this weekend?!

See our results here: NY Times Perfect Chocolate Chip Cookie: What's Your Verdict?

The full article, "Perfection? Hint: It's Warm and It Has a Secret" by David Leite, is available here.
The full recipe for Chocolate Chip Cookies is available here.

Related: Kitchen Science: In Pursuit of the Perfect Cookie

(Images: Francesco Tonelli for The New York Times and Emma Christensen for the Kitchn)

Comments (23)

My sis made these. They're pretty darned close to heaven, even with Nestle chocolate chips (which I happen to love, but not what the recipe calls for).

I'm probably never going to make them because I'll definitely eat them all by myself but I can hope she'll make them again!

posted by Tiamat_the_Red on July 18th 2008 at 8:14am
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I don't know if I'm sold on this recipe. 36 hours is a long time to wait for cookies, and the beauty of the chocolate chip cookies is that it's quick an relatively easy to make. I think I'll sick with the toll-house recipe from the back of the chocolate chip bag. I might try this over the holidays with my sister, cause she's the real baker of the family.

posted by Christal on July 18th 2008 at 8:44am
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I mentioned this article to my boyfriend, and expressed surprise at the 36-hour chilling, but he remained calm and said, "Don't they sell refrigerated cookie dough in the store?"

My initial reaction, of course, was that then you don't know what's in the dough (or, worse, you do), and making it at home is completely different... but then I saw his point. Refrigerated not only for 36 hours, but for who knows how long? It's not really a new idea.

So then I changed my tune to surprise that long chilling would be a good thing, rather than a compromise for convenience. (Don't worry, I still would make it myself instead of buying Pillsbury.)

posted by Joan A. on July 18th 2008 at 8:50am
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Too hot to bake now, waiting for the Fall. Also want to try this technique with Banana-Walnut Chocolate Chip Cookies

posted by luigilly on July 18th 2008 at 8:51am
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Store-bought cookie dough is nasty, though! It tastes like chemicals.

Christal, some bloggers posted about using a vacuume sealer to get the moisture distributed faster but I don't think anyone's done a test to see how the two compare. I'm thinking of trying it and using my co-workers as guinea pigs. I doubt they'd mind. Too much.

posted by Tiamat_the_Red on July 18th 2008 at 8:53am
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I love the resting aspect. I've had a batch in the fridge all week, if you can believe that, and it makes for one hell of a spur-of-the-moment treat for guests. Or, just me and my sweetie.

posted by Katie in Berkeley on July 18th 2008 at 9:10am
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it would be a serious test of willpower to have cookie dough sitting in the fridge for 36hrs...but sounds worth the wait

posted by hazel8 on July 18th 2008 at 9:17am
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I made these cookies this week and thought that resting the dough really made the caramel flavors come through. The recipe was fussier than most (I don't normally keep both bread flour and cake flour around), but the end result was well worth it. I used Guittard Super Cookie Chips in place of the chocolate discs recommended in the recipe. They worked out well. Will definitely make again.

posted by vrp on July 18th 2008 at 9:23am
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After a scorching walk to Jacques Torres for the féves (kept in a cooled pouch on the way home), my dough is resting quietly (and discreetly) in the veggie drawer.

posted by Sara Kate on July 18th 2008 at 9:34am
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I haven't done this yet, but it's on my to do list for this weekend! The article was really interesting and the cookies look AMAZING. Might get them started tonight and have them ready for the hubs to bring to work on Monday morning...

posted by jlyn13 on July 18th 2008 at 9:47am
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My personal definition of "perfect" where cookies are concerned includes the caveat that I must be able to make and eat them the same day.

The only time I'm willing to refrigerate cookie dough is for shortbread and gingerbread at xmas. The rest of the year, I want cookies the same day I'm making them!

posted by angorian on July 18th 2008 at 10:39am
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i made the batter Wednesday night - made a very small first batch Thursday night (i could NOT wait) and plan on making more tonight.
Oh, mama. This first, 24 hour rest batch, was delicious. I can't wait for tonight's batch.

posted by amysahba on July 18th 2008 at 11:09am
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Maybe we'll try it this weekend. It's kind of a neat idea for summer, actually: I am often in the mood to bake during the day, but in Tucson, we ONLY turn the oven on first thing in the morning (once the temp hits 100, it doesn't back down). This way, I can do all of the fun stuff--measuring and mixing--at will, and leave the dough resting until it's cool enough to turn on my oven.

posted by ricestein on July 18th 2008 at 11:42am
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I made these cookies a few days ago. While I'm not sure I prefer them to my usual recipe, there are very, very good. The salt is a nice touch. But they're very rich and intense and it kind of prevents you from eating more than 1 or 2, which is a good thing....I guess....

posted by hyperRevue on July 19th 2008 at 5:38am
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I am an avid cookie baker and eater. I baked these cookies yesterday to rave reviews. This is truly an incredible cookie, dvine flavor and texture. For a detailed account and some extra baking tips take a peek:

http://izzyeats.blogspot.com/2008/07/it-chocolate-chip-cookie-500-calorie.html

posted by izzy's mama on July 19th 2008 at 8:50am
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It's funny that I'm hearing about this, because I've done it for years. People love my cookies and I would never tell them the secret was to give the flour time to hydrate. Makes a huge difference in the texture. During Christmas, I'll make a few different cookie doughs ahead and bake them all in one day to give away. Resting the dough is also helpful for many baked goods which you are not worried about rise (pie crust for instance).

posted by twosavoie on July 19th 2008 at 3:27pm
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I made this recipe last weekend and everyone who tried both these and my own personal recipe said mine was better. The differences? I let my dough rest 24 hours as well, but I use all bread flour, almost all brown sugar (molasses = chewy!) and only egg yolks. In fact, much of my recipe is based on Alton Brown's "The Chewy" episode.

http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/alton-brown/the-chewy-recipe/index.html

posted by session on July 19th 2008 at 9:48pm
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This was such a fun article! A few years ago, I made too much choc. chip cookie dough so I refrigerated the leftovers, and I was totally surprised at how much better the cookies tasted after they had been sitting in the fridge for a few days. I thought it was just a fluke or something, but I kept doing that. Now it's nice to know why refrigeration makes it taste the way it does. :) I always just use the recipe on the back of the Ghiradelli chocolate chip bag, but I'm curious to try this recipe out this week!

posted by HooGirl on July 21st 2008 at 3:31am
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Hi, I have actually baked the cookies twice already. My first time was during the weekend right after the NY Times article was posted. And I just recently baked another batch with cake flour (used AP flour as a substitute the first time).

Cake flour makes the cookie chewier according my to friends. Although I have only baked the cookies after chilling the dough for 24 hours at least, I'd like to find out the "myth" of chilling the cookie dough. I will be baking another batch soon with 0-hr, 12-hr, and 24-hr intervals! To check out the pictures, please visit www.sweatyguineapig.com.

Ciao!

posted by reggiesoang on July 21st 2008 at 9:57am
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I am always in search of a good cookie so I will definitely have to try these as soon as possible. (shameless plug) FYI for anyone in the Atlanta Georgia area, WholeFoods has the most delicious cookies in their bakery. If you don't have time to bake some yourself, they are YUMMY. Sadly it seems the company does not use the same recipe in all stores cause I've tried them in other states and they were not the same.

posted by KAyanna on July 22nd 2008 at 8:32am
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Cook's Illustrated just had the "perfect" CC cookie a couple of months ago. I've baked them twice. They involve melting then waiting until the butter turns brown (which results in a nutty flavor in the cookies). I'm a HUGE fan of Toll House, but CI's recipe is incredible. I would recommend getting a handle on it!

posted by Kimberlita Paternosky on July 17th 2009 at 10:03am
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That's interesting, Kimberlita - I made those CI cookies about a month ago and almost couldn't finish them! (I mean, that's probably a little hyperbole; who wouldn't finish a batch of cookies?!?) I really didn't like the browned-butter taste to them, and it was a big disappointment, since I typically love every single recipe I try from Cook's. On to the NYT, I guess. Or back to Nestle Tollhouse.

posted by aoelkers on July 17th 2009 at 11:45am
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I've made the NYT recipe over the last Christmas holidays, complete with the 12 hour interval bake test. I agree that they were deliciously improved by letting the dough "mature", and I might have to try them with cake flour next to get a better chew out of them.

Oddly enough, my holiday time giant cookie tray filled with ten varieties of the so called "best" cookie recipes, the fruity coconut recipe vanished the fastest. Who knew fruit would trump chocolate chips?

posted by Food Monstar on July 17th 2009 at 2:02pm
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